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Tourists

What I call necessary but sometimes a nuisance. It’s nice and peaceful here until the first flights start to arrive.

When picking people up from the airport you can tell as they come off the plane the newbies from the regulars. The newbies stand and look around apprehensively wondering if their ride has turned up or if they are going to be able to order a taxi in English. They are also still wearing their jeans and long sleeve shirts, running shoes with socks and sometimes even a coat, and perspiring profusely. The regulars stride out with confidence wearing shorts sandals and T-shirts and looking as cool as an icy margarita.

We can also tell who they are as they pass on the street. When we say “buenos dias” they usually reply in a shy way with “Hi” or sometimes “bonjour”. And of course, they are very pale and after a few days very red from sunburn.

We sat at Papa Gallo’s one day and a pale couple came to sit at a table near the beach. Gaby served them and I guess they ordered a beer. There wasn’t any available so Gaby had to hike to the nearest store to get some. In the meantime, the tourists got fed up with waiting (about 5 minutes) and got up to leave. They met up with Gaby as they were going and he showed them they had the beer so they returned to their table.

It’s lucky they weren’t here when it was busy as a 15 to 20 minutes wait is quite acceptable. After a while though, and after several days and a few margaritas, they seem to settle down somewhat. Anyway, who minds waiting when the sun is out, the waves are crashing and a nice breeze is blowing? And of course, you can also watch the chiquitas on the beach

Some order hamburgers and fries at the restaurant because they are a little afraid to try the local food. It may be too spicy and the lettuce may be contaminated. They were told not to have ice in their drinks because this too is contaminated. All nonsense of course but these old silly rumours seem to persist.

There are the quiet ones who just sit and enjoy the scenery and listen to the waves crashing on the beach. And then there are the brash noisy ones (We all know who they are) who treat the waiters as their personal slaves and are only here to party with no regard for those about them.

The ones we get a kick out of are those who have perfect Spanish (they think). We cringe as they mangle the language and look all proud of themselves. They think that because the waiter understood them that they got it exactly right. The waiters though have heard it all before and managed to work it out. But at least some tourists try.

We were walking into town one day and a guy wanted to know if they were serving so stuck his head in the door and enquired “Servieta?” He was asking for a napkin, but he tried.

Another way to tell a tourist is when Banamex ATMs run out of money on the weekends. They are the ones lining up in the heat outside the Intercam bank to try to use the machines while the old hands walk in and use the teller to get money from their accounts. It’s chaos when both banks run out.

The Mexicans are the nicest people you could meet but some can be a little reticent until they get to know you. They may seem standoffish to some tourists and perhaps they feel resentment. Perhaps the Mexicans feel the same way about them.

Tourists always walk in the middle of the road. I think this is because a lot of businesses and homes tend to encroach onto the sidewalks and they don’t want to intrude on the locals. They ride their rented bikes any which way down a one-way street and don’t look where they are going. I almost nailed one a few days ago because they weren’t paying attention. Mexican cyclists have more respect for cars but the tourists think they have the right of way no matter which way they are going. Watch out if they have a rental car for the first time, they’re even more dangerous than the Mexican drivers.

Businesses covering the sidewalk. Now you can see why Rosalie knocks a few things over after a couple of margaritas.

We have heard of tourists saying that there are too many Mexicans on the beach even though this is a traditional Mexican seaside resort. A friend even heard of one lady say she has been coming here for several years and was surprised that the Mexicans still don’t speak English. And of course, the Quebecois try to teach them to speak French when they are trying to learn English.

Some tourists can sometimes be a pain in the butt, sometimes great, and appreciate the Mexicans and the fact that they are in paradise. Whoever they are wherever they come from, they are critical to the economy here and are welcomed. But of course, a lot of the tourists come here regularly and know the ropes.

We are very aware of these tourists as that describes us seventeen years ago when we first came. I remember walking into town in runners and long sports socks because I didn’t have sandals. The only Spanish I knew was “Dos cerveza por favor”

And it’s peaceful again when the last flights leave.

Last day at Cowpuchino’s

It’s been an eventful couple of days.

We were at Terraza Cortes for a quiet afternoon drink and visited Lorena. She speaks some English and helps us with our Spanish. She and her three brothers: Arturo, Jorge, and Israel along with her sister Rosario own the restaurant and have all become friends, despite us having been thrown out seven years ago.

Lorena Y Rosalia

While we were there an arrest went down across the street. Apparently, a guy had broken into an apartment and the cops were there to arrest him. He was a solid-looking guy and strong. He put up quite a fight and punched the cops a few times. It took two of them to finally get him into handcuffs. They didn’t look like local town cops: these guys were wearing flack jackets and looked very professional. Good entertainment for us.

The following day we went to Cowpuchino’s for the last time this season. John was there and told us there had been an accident on the highway on his way over. It looked as though a guy had tried to cross the highway, was hit by a vehicle and was lying on the road. A Mexican at Cowpuccino’s told us the same story, but he thought the guy was a Canadian and still alive. The ambulance had arrived so hopefully good news.

Later after our second drink, another fight broke out, this time between a chihuahua and a chicken trying to protect one of her nuggets. There were several scuffles and the chicken won them all. It didn’t put the chihuahua off one bit, she kept coming back for more. The chihuahua must have wanted that nugget really badly. She was a feisty little thing and I was worried about my ankles as she hung around us quite a bit.

I think the chicken was brave because she had taken a drink from the pink cup on the seat. It was false bravery though as she didn’t know there was no Booze in it; a kid’s drink.

There was a little kid there trying to lasso anything that moved, he saw a goat go by and charged off forgetting that the one thing he had caught was a tree stump and that it didn’t move. Quite funny and all part of the free entertainment.

And so, back to the casa for more packing before heading to the beach for more Spanish lessons from Lorena.

An hour on the beach

We took our usual trip to the beach after half an hour of furious packing and ordered a couple of piña coladas; not my usual drink but good all the same.

As usual, our amigo Mark Antony showed up selling pistachios and today we decided to buy some. He was so overcome that he had to sit at our table and order a beer. We told the mesero to put it on our tab.

The next hour was awesome. I had assumed that Mark Antony could speak English but it turned out that he only knew enough to sell his products. So Rosalie stepped in and helped to bridge the gap. I added my little Spanish whenever I could. However, I still have a problem understanding it when it’s spoken to me, but I keep trying and it’s starting to pay off little by little.

He didn’t stop at one beer but had three, two of which were on our bill. He is very inquisitive and wanted to see photos of Canada, the Rockies, our site and anything else we mentioned. He is an awesome guy, always friendly, he has to fist-bump everybody he meets and I think that helps with his sales.

It was mentioned that the Bandidos were coming back to Canada this year and it would be fun for him to come to Canada too, to sell his pistachios at their gigs. It was said in jest but you could just see the wheels turning in his brain. That is until I mentioned all the bureaucracy he would need to go through.

We’ve been trying to visit our favourite spots one more time, before we leave. As most of the kitchen stuff is packed we are having to eat out for the next few days.

Also for the last few days, it’s going to be careful planning and coordinating with Castulo who takes care of the car. We leave on Thursday so have to have the car garaged by Wednesday afternoon. We can walk into town after that. It’s starting to get hot here, it was 35 C yesterday so we don’t want to do too much walking in the heat.

We also have to pack our StarLink but I will leave that until Thursday morning so we have WiFi until the last minute.

We were sitting on the patio when an iguana wandered in. He/she didn’t seem in the least concerned that we were there. Rosalie likes him but at a distance so I grabbed the broom and gently persuaded him to leave. He left mmediately and ran into the laundry room. I had seen him/her there before and think it’s his/her home under the old washing machine. Anyway, we decided to call him Larry The Laundry Lizard. I think it suits him/her.

Ooh! dark

I momentarily forgot about the eclipse. (An age thing, you know.) So when the light dimmed I thought for a moment that Mexico had forgotten to pay the electricity bill.

It didn’t get very dark here just a bit dimmer. I was a bit disappointed and if I had paid I would have asked for my money back. But it was dim enough to shut the dogs, roosters and songbirds up for a while. We noticed that it didn’t stop the Mexican music though.

I would have liked to have watched it with Eclipse glasses but was too late to get some online. I sure wasn’t going to buy them from a local store, not that we saw any. They would probably be made from old X-rays and I didn’t fancy trying to look at the sun through someone’s belly button.

See, no glasses, they were afraid of the belly button too.

Rosalie noticed that the temperature also dropped-another reason to ask for a refund.

The next total eclipse here is on 11 May 2078 so I guess I’ll just have to wait around for that one.

Whine, whine, whine

Tourists in Mazatlan have been complaining about the bands on the beach being too noisy. They tried to get them banned or quietened down. They tried to get designated areas and times. Fortunately, the bands themselves held a protest and were supported by the Governor of Sinaloa. The whole thing was thrown out and the bands played on. So tourists said they would never come back because of the noise, Good!

The bands seem to play mostly to Mexicans. We have paid a street singer occasionally but wouldn’t hire a band.

It’s amazing how people complain here: the dogs bark too much, the fireworks are too noisy, the bands are annoying, the restaurant service is too slow and my two favourites: there are too many Mexicans on the beach and why don’t the waiters speak English.

The beach vendors can be annoying too but if you politely say “No Gracias” they go away. Some are a bit pushy but that’s part of their job. Some bring nice treats like cakes and donuts, peanuts, and pistachios, and if you’re up for it, roasted crickets.

These are all the things we enjoy about Mexico. If the tourists don’t like it, they should stay up north and not come to this beautiful place.

Some things do annoy us but it’s all part of the culture here and we sure wouldn’t complain about it. Like this guy, for instance, I made it short as he can be annoying. I noticed that he only has eleven strings on his twelve-string guitar.

https://youtu.be/_2XpIFJmIpg

The thing is, we are a captive audience and as soon as he finishes playing he comes around looking for a tip. We always pay up. Then there is the guy who plays a xylophone. He looks as though he’s about ninety years old and knows about two vaguely recognizable tunes. He also goes looking for tips. These people are only trying to make a living and we applaud them for at least trying.

The nice part about this is that most of the complaints are posted on Facebook and often get blasted by people who live here and Mexicans alike.

My advice to people who want a nice quiet holiday is don’t come to Mexico because Mexicans love lots of noise.

Annoying but entertaining

We weren’t going to go to the beach the other day, but after sitting and looking at each other for a few minutes we decided to go after all. I wanted to go to see the bikinis anyway.

At Terraza Cortez we settled in at our usual table (actually any table). Three norteño guys were sitting next to us and at first, they were annoying until we started to listen to what they were talking about.

We couldn’t hear much but the snatches of conversation we heard were entertaining. The youngest guy was the most verbal and spouting the most nonsense. And of course, the language was quite colourful. Apparently, they were already four tequilas and several beers in, so it was somewhat entertaining.

I got the impression that they were related and were just a few wrong words away from a punch-up. The young guy was complaining about his wife. It seems that she constantly made his life miserable. We were both wondering why she stayed with the fool.

Several times they looked as though they were going to pay the bill and leave, only to order more beer. By this time the older guy was almost falling out of his chair. He didn’t say much but when he did he got angry with the young guy. Altogether a very entertaining afternoon.

The breeze has been making it very chilly at the beach these days. Today we only stayed for one drink. Rosalie forgot her shawl and I didn’t have a warm shirt on so we went home for happy hour.

Gourmet Food

Rosalie, my favourite cooking maniac. 

She has been cooking up some fabulous food lately. I sometimes think she overdoes it. She should just toss whatever it is in the frying pan sear it on both sides slap it on a plate and serve it to me. I’m sure it would be delicious. Instead, I get a gourmet meal that I have to rate. 

I hate it when she gives me something that other people find delicious but I just don’t like. How do I tell her when she has put so much love and effort into it? Luckily that doesn’t happen very often.

Being English I like a lot of my food plain. I was raised in a culture where everything is fried and served with fries. On menus in some cafés in England, you see just about everything…and chips. Together with tea that has been stewing for a few hours if not days. Add two heaping spoons of sugar and some milk and you have a perfect cup of English tea. Yuck!

I do miss my English fish and chips though. I’ve been served some good fish meals here but there is nothing like coming out of the theatre late at night, finding a fish and chip shop, placing an order and eating it out of newspaper as you walk home. You would have smothered it in salt and malt vinegar first though. You would have to be walking because you just missed the last bus. Not that it mattered as you spent the last of your money on the fish and chips anyway.

I love being Canadian and part Mexican but there will always be that pull toward some English-style foods. I was married to a Scot for 27 years and still can’t face blood pudding. Haggis though, that’s a different story: That, I like.

Okay, so we have some funny-sounding foods in England. For example:

Bubble and squeak: is a fried British dish made with potatoes and cabbage. It’s quite similar to the Irish colcannon. It often contains meat such as ham or bacon and is traditionally made on Monday with the leftovers from Sunday’s dinner or on Boxing Day with leftovers from the Christmas feast. It is sometimes topped with a fried egg.

Toad in the hole: is a traditional British dish made of sausages baked into a large Yorkshire pudding, typically served with onion gravy.

Pease pudding and faggots: This one takes some time to explain so here is a link:  Pease pudding

Mushy peas: fresh garden peas are harvested when young. Marrowfat peas are mature garden peas that have been allowed to dry naturally in the field before harvesting. It’s what gives them their starchy texture—and ability to get mushy. And I still can’t understand why you guys don’t like them.

Jellied eels: Again this needs a link as there is some history. Jellied eels. I haven’t tried them because they don’t appeal to me.

After reading about some of the gourmet foods we eat in England surely Rosalie has to understand why I can’t like everything she serves up. But I do like bananas.

Down by the seaside

There are many reasons for going to the beach in the afternoon, mostly it’s just to get out of the house for a while. We go to cool off, although it’s been a little chilly lately, and have a quiet drink. Then Easter happens.

The Mexicans start celebration days before the actual event. This was the day before Good Friday. There were hundreds of Mexican tourists on the beach and the signs and sounds made it a lot of fun. It’s nice to watch dads playing in the surf with their kids; young girls in their bikinis; competing bands playing; radios blaring; the banana boat taking people for a ride, and beach vendors trying to make a living, all adding up to a couple of hours of entertainment for us. There was even a police boat cruising up and down to keep law and order. (I typed that with a smile on my face.)

One couple was throwing a ball to one another. At first, the young lady couldn’t catch it to save her life, but eventually, she started to do better.

Los Cocos is our restaurant of choice lately, next door to Las Hamacas. Usually, when a band is playing at Las Hamacas it can be heard in Los Cocos, but not this day though: it was all, just too noisy.

One vendor, our amigo Bolivar, always stops and talks to us. When a young girl in a bikini walked right in front of him, the appreciative look he gave me when he saw her was priceless.

An older Mexican came into the restaurant with his guitar and pan flute and sang a couple of songs. It was so noisy we couldn’t even hear him, but we gave him a tip anyway.

On one of the days, the noise was so bad so we decided to go to Terasa Cortez. The place was almost empty, however, they were serving sixteen tables on the beach that they charged 300 pesos for. They have to do this as the Mexicans mostly bring all their own food and booze.

A young kid selling ‘tuba’ (a coconut drink) came to our table and said something very fast to Rosalie in Spanish. When she said she didn’t understand him he gave her a most exasperated look: absolutely hilarious! We found out his name was Alfonso and he became friends with me for a brief moment.

It seems that almost all the bars have a gay waiter. Being gay doesn’t seem to matter here as none of them try to cover it up. It’s quite refreshing that way.

Some of the waiter’s names seem quite odd such as Africa, Pollo and Chava, (means Girl). These are all guys and only one is gay, that we know of.

Can’t wait to go again.

WOW!

We met some nice folks down here, Bill and Judy, and bonded with them easily.

Just before they went home Rosalie offered to take them to the airport. The weird thing about this is that Rosalie didn’t remember doing it. On the day they were leaving, we got an e-mail asking where we were. This was strange as neither of us remembered saying we would take them. Rosalie checked her e-mail and sure enough, she had made the offer but didn’t tell me as a backup.

If that wasn’t bizarre enough it gets worse! When it was obvious that we weren’t coming, Bill and Judy ordered a taxi. As they were checking out, they were told by their Hotel ‘Casa Leon’, that they owed 43,000 pesos for their stay. They denied this as they had paid half as a deposit last season, with the rest at the beginning of their stay this season along with the receipts. Then they got in the taxi. In the meantime, the hotel called the police who followed the taxi for a while and then pulled them over.

They were handcuffed and after emptying their wallets they were made to draw 16,000 from their bank accounts to give to the police. They then spent 3 hours in jail. Because of this, they missed their flights and instead of flying from Manzanillo, they had to take the bus to Puerto Vallarta a couple of days later.

I hope this was a case of miscommunication but with Mexican record-keeping who knows?

Rosalie’s sister Giselle had a similar problem earlier on. She and Gordon had put down a deposit last year on their room at Hotel ‘Vista Hermosa’, for this year. When they contacted the hotel last September to advise arrival dates etc. they found that the price had doubled. Giselle cancelled the room and booked another one elsewhere, planning to get her deposit back when they returned.

When they did arrive, Rosalie went with her to the hotel but was told the only person who could refund their deposit was the owner, who wasn’t there at the time. Giselle was told to come back. A week later, the owner still wasn’t there with the office staff very resistant in refunding her deposit. However, Giselle had kept all the paperwork: receipts and emails and showed them. Finally, she had had enough and told them that she was going to contact the Consumer Protection people. Well, that changed things rapidly: she got her money back right away.

I don’t know if this is becoming a trend here as we keep hearing stories about prices being raised after deposits are given. If this is so, they are doing a huge disservice to both themselves and the community. There will be a reputation that Melaque is ripping people off and tourists will stop coming.

There are also some disturbing things happening in that some restaurants have started using smaller wine and margarita glasses but have increased prices. We’re lucky because we know which restaurants are fair. The problem is that the tourists don’t know the local prices so they pay up, making things worse.

Anyway, Bill and Judy got home safely and contacted their travel agent who will be looking into it. We sent them the info about the Mexican consumer protection agency that Giselle had threatened and hope they can get their money back from somebody.

If anyone reading this comes down here and has trouble, this is the Consumer Protection website. http://www.profeco.gob.mx/

Winding down

It’s come to that time of year again, with people starting to go back home.

There are far fewer tourists here now; our friends and family are going also. This last weekend four more groups went home. There are only four weeks left for us that will go by in no time. Nearly time to think about starting to put stuff away. I got the 3D printer packed a few days ago as Gerry and Denise are being good enough to take it back to Nanaimo for us. Our arrival time in Comox is midnight on the 18/19th of April.

The temperature has been as low as 12 C in the morning so the chiminea gets used a lot. The daytime temperature still gets up in the high 20s, hot enough to drive us to the beach most days.

When friends and family leave they clear out their fridges and leave their leftovers with us. So far Rosalie has collected 3 jars of mustard, 3 balsamic vinegars, 2 ketchups etc. Also inherited were part bottles of booze as well as a pack of 18 beers, most of which we shared. We have fun in the evening trying to empty some of the part bottles. There still is another bag of cans and bottles that we haven’t sorted out yet.

Some of the booze is left in the laundry room for further processing. There was an iguana in there the other day and I don’t like the idea of it getting drunk and causing havoc. I’ll have to watch that.

When people leave there is usually a going-away dinner. We’ve already been to a few and expect to go to more. We hosted one ourselves on the weekend.

It’s the time of year for the folks of San Patricio to celebrate St. Patrick’s day. Being Mexican, they don’t just celebrate the day, but start ten days ahead.

The mornings start with cojetes which are loud rockets set off by the church starting at 5:30 am. Some mornings they start at 5:15 am just for a change. This of course sets the dogs and roosters off so it’s a great alarm clock to get to early mass.

The main square has a fireworks display each night that gets crazier as the days go by culminating on 17th March. One year I almost got nailed by a falling catherine wheel. We didn’t go again this year; I think once was enough.

Surgery

Rosalie’s youngest sister Marina has been suffering from hip pain for quite a while. She was told in Canada that it wasn’t bad enough for surgery yet but she was put on the list.

While here, the suggestion came up that the surgery could be done here. She didn’t know how to go about it so we made an appointment for her with Doctora Rosa on Thursday.

Dra. Rosa sent her for X-rays and did blood work. We took her back on the following Monday and the good news was that she didn’t need a full hip replacement just the top of the femur. The surgery was scheduled for Wednesday in Guadalajara five days from the initial examination. It was Dra. Rosa’s son, Dr. Victor Hugo Campos Vivas who was going to do the surgery.

Marina had to buy some supplies beforehand so Rosalie and I took her to the same X-ray clinic which sold all manner of medical supplies. One of the things she needed was a lift for the toilet. She caused a lot of hilarity especially when I suggested that we put it in the back of the car for Rosalie to use as a booster seat with Marina suggesting a little wheel.

At this point, Rosalie and I stood back and let some of the other sisters take over. Suzanne, her husband Vic and sister Delorie volunteered to take her on the bus to Guadalajara. They were met at the bus depot by the surgeon and taken to the hospital. That evening Marina was examined by the cardiologist ready for the following day.

At 8 am on Wednesday she had the surgery and later that day we got a text saying that all went well. The weird thing about this is that Rosalie had insisted all along that the surgery would be on that day. We were even sent photos of the procedure as it went along.

Of course, Marina had to pay for the procedure herself. The cost was about $10,500 CDN. That included Dra Rosa’s visits as well as the X-rays and blood work.

I don’t understand our system. In Canada, the same procedure would cost the healthcare system up to $30,000. Why don’t they encourage us to get the surgery done here and then pay for it? Then it would only cost healthcare about $10,000. I suppose that with the system now they don’t get to pay a thing.

After a three-day stay in the hospital, Marina was released and they spent a few days in Guadalajara to recover. The surgeon booked their tickets for the bus and took them to the bus depot.

I picked them up in Barra and took them home. They were pretty tired as it was a six-hour bus ride. The good thing is that the bus has a downstairs area with only four seats that are loungers and it’s quiet and comfortable.

Two weeks from now Dr Victor will come to Melaque and take Marina’s stitches out.

All in all a great family effort. Everyone chipped in to help and all went really well.

Marina and the other sisters rave bout Dr. Victor Hugo Campos Vivas. They say he was helpful courteous and all round a very nice person, a success in every way.